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purple bog coat

I’ve been asked by several people for a pattern for my purple wool bog coat. This type of Norse coat is a wonderful thing to have at a medieval camping event when the temperature drops. Cloaks are fine when one is snuggled up by the fire, or standing around visiting, but when there are chores to be done, or activities to partake in, a coat is the way to go. Yay for early period garb!

the artful acorn | purple bog coat | side
photo by Logan Grigg

These are the measurements I decide on for my petite 5′ 1″ frame. I wanted it big enough to wear over layers of wool garb, so it’s a bit roomy, but it sure is warm!

the artful acorn | purple bog coat | measurements

The body is one piece folded over at the shoulders. I added nine inches to my bust measurement, and divided that measurement in half to determine the width of the body piece. Then I measured my upper arm, added six inches for ease, and divided that number in half to determine the width of the sleeves.  The underarm gussets are 4 inches, which is an inch larger than drawn here. And the gores ran from my waist down to the hem, extending out 10 inches on either side. The neck is about six inches wide, dipping down 3/4″ in the back, and 2 3/4″ down in front. Before cutting out the pieces, I added 1/4′” seam allowance to the neckline, and 1/2″ seam allowance to the rest of the pieces.

 

the artful acorn | purple bog coat | pieces

All cut out.

 

the artful acorn | purple bog coat | side gores

First I sewed the sleeves to the body, then the side gore. The other gore is on the fold, so there was one less seam on that side.

 

the artful acorn | purple bog coat | underarm gusset

Underarm gusset. So easy to piece in when stitching by hand!

 

the artful acorn | purple bog coat | trimming

Trimming off the excess before marking the hem.

 

the artful acorn | purple bog coat | helpful cat

Helpful cat is helpful.

 

the artful acorn | purple bog coat | seam finishing

The joy of using fulled wool is that it doesn’t unravel. I trimmed the seam allowances to about 3/8″ before finishing them with an overcast stitch.

 

the artful acorn | purple bog coat | back
photo by Logan Grigg

Finished! Now I just need to embellish it . . . .

 

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